Every curly hair term, technique, and ingredient explained - from A to Z
A
Air Drying
Letting your hair dry naturally without heat. Air drying preserves curl pattern and reduces damage, but takes longer and can cause frizz in humid climates. Apply your stylers to soaking wet hair before air drying for best results.
Andre Walker Hair Typing System
The classification system that categorizes hair into types 1 (straight), 2 (wavy), 3 (curly), and 4 (coily), with subtypes A, B, and C from loosest to tightest. Created by Oprah's hairstylist Andre Walker. See all 9 curl types.
ACV Rinse (Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse)
A diluted apple cider vinegar and water mixture (typically 1:4 ratio) used after shampooing to remove buildup, close the hair cuticle, and add shine. Especially helpful for low porosity hair that resists moisture absorption.
B
Big Chop
Cutting off all chemically treated or heat-damaged hair at once to start fresh with your natural curl pattern. Common when transitioning from relaxed to natural hair. The alternative is gradually trimming damaged ends over time (transitioning).
Bond Repair
Treatments (like Olaplex No. 3) that rebuild broken disulfide bonds inside the hair shaft caused by heat, color, or chemical damage. Different from deep conditioning, which adds moisture but doesn't repair structural bonds.
Buildup
The accumulation of product residue, oils, minerals, and silicones on hair and scalp over time. Causes limp, dull curls that won't clump properly. Removed with a clarifying shampoo or occasional sulfate wash.
C
Cast (Gel Cast)
The hard, crunchy shell that forms around your curls when gel or mousse dries completely. This is desirable - the cast holds your curl shape while drying. You break it afterwards with SOTC (scrunching out the crunch) for soft, defined curls.
CGM (Curly Girl Method)
A hair care approach popularized by Lorraine Massey that avoids sulfates, silicones, heat, and brushing. Works well as a starting point but strict CGM has limitations - many curly-haired people get better results with modified CGM that allows occasional clarifying and heat styling.
Clarifying Shampoo
A stronger shampoo (often containing sulfates) used occasionally to strip away buildup that regular sulfate-free shampoo can't remove. Most curly hair benefits from clarifying every 2-4 weeks, especially if you use heavy creams, gels, or non-water-soluble silicones.
Clumping
When individual hair strands group together into defined curl clusters. Good clumping = defined, separated curls with less frizz. Achieved by applying products to soaking wet hair, scrunching upward, and avoiding touching curls while drying.
Co-wash (Conditioner Washing)
Washing hair with conditioner instead of shampoo. The conditioner gently lifts dirt while adding moisture. Best for very dry, coily hair (type 4) that needs maximum moisture. Not ideal for wavy hair or oily scalps - use low-poo instead.
Curl Pattern
The natural shape your hair forms when air-dried without products. Ranges from loose S-waves (type 2A) to tight zigzag coils (type 4C). Most people have multiple patterns on their head. Take our quiz to find yours.
D
Deep Conditioning
A intensive moisture treatment left on hair for 15-30 minutes, often with a heat cap for better penetration. Essential for type 3-4 curls that are prone to dryness. Do weekly or biweekly depending on how dry your hair is.
Denman Brush
A styling brush (specifically the Denman D3) used on wet, product-loaded hair to create defined curl clumps. You brush sections of hair then twist or coil them around the brush. Not for detangling - it's a styling tool for creating uniform ringlets.
Diffusing
Using a diffuser attachment on a blow dryer to dry curls without disrupting their shape. Set to medium heat and low speed. Cup curls in the diffuser bowl and hold against your head - don't move the diffuser around. Reduces drying time while maintaining definition compared to air drying.
Drying Alcohols
Short-chain alcohols (like alcohol denat, isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol) that strip moisture and cause frizz. Avoid these in curly hair products. Not to be confused with fatty alcohols (cetyl, cetearyl, stearyl) which are actually moisturizing and beneficial.
E
Emollient
An ingredient that softens and smooths the hair cuticle. Oils, butters, and silicones are all emollients. Heavier emollients (shea butter, castor oil) work best on thick, coily hair, while lighter ones (argan oil, jojoba oil) suit wavy and fine curly hair.
Elasticity
How much your hair can stretch and bounce back without breaking. Healthy curls have good elasticity. Poor elasticity (hair snaps when stretched) indicates protein or moisture imbalance. Fix with protein treatments if hair is mushy, or deep conditioning if it feels dry and brittle.
F
Fatty Alcohols
Long-chain alcohols (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol) that are actually moisturizing and beneficial for curly hair. Found in most conditioners. Don't confuse these with drying alcohols - fatty alcohols smooth the cuticle and reduce frizz.
Finger Coiling
A styling technique where you wrap individual sections of wet, product-loaded hair around your finger to create uniform spiral curls. Time-consuming but gives very defined results, especially for type 3-4 hair. Best for wash-and-go styles.
Frizz
Individual hairs that separate from curl clumps and stand out, creating a fuzzy halo. Caused by humidity, rough handling, dryness, or touching curls while drying. Minimized by applying products to soaking wet hair, using a microfiber towel, and not touching hair until fully dry.
Frizz Halo
The layer of tiny flyaway hairs that forms around the top and crown of your head. Some frizz halo is normal and natural - it's not a flaw. Reduced with gel, edge control, or a light application of oil on dry hair.
A humectant that draws moisture from the air into your hair. Works great in moderate humidity but can cause frizz in very humid climates (pulls too much moisture in) or dryness in very dry climates (pulls moisture out of hair). Check your climate before relying on glycerin-heavy products.
H
Heat Cap
A cap that applies gentle heat to your head during deep conditioning, opening the hair cuticle so the conditioner penetrates more deeply. Electric or microwaveable versions available. Makes deep conditioners significantly more effective, especially for low porosity hair.
Humectant
An ingredient that attracts and holds moisture from the environment. Common humectants include glycerin, honey, aloe vera, and propylene glycol. Humectants work best in moderate humidity (40-60%). In very high or very low humidity, they can backfire.
Hygral Fatigue
Damage caused by hair repeatedly swelling with water and then drying. The constant expansion and contraction weakens the hair structure over time. Prevented by using a pre-poo oil treatment before washing to limit how much water the hair absorbs.
I
Ingredient Check
Scanning a product's ingredient list for sulfates, non-water-soluble silicones, drying alcohols, and other ingredients that might not suit your curl routine. Many curly hair communities use tools like CurlScan or IsItCG to quickly check products.
L
Leave-In Conditioner
A lightweight conditioner applied after washing that stays in your hair (not rinsed out). Adds moisture, detangles, and preps hair for styling products. See our top picks. Cream leave-ins work for type 3-4, spray leave-ins for type 2.
LOC Method (Liquid-Oil-Cream)
A product layering technique for maximum moisture retention. Apply in order: Liquid (water or leave-in spray), Oil (to seal), Cream (to lock in). Best for type 4 coily hair. Some prefer LCO (liquid, cream, oil) - experiment to see which order your hair prefers.
Low-Poo
A gentle, sulfate-free shampoo that cleanses without stripping natural oils. The middle ground between co-washing (conditioner only) and clarifying (strong shampoo). Good for most curl types as a regular wash day cleanser.
Low Porosity
Hair with tightly closed cuticles that resists absorbing water and products. Water beads up on the hair rather than soaking in. Needs lightweight products, warmth to open cuticles (use warm water, heat cap), and liquid-based leave-ins rather than heavy creams.
M
Medusa Clipping
A nighttime preservation technique using small claw clips to pin curls loosely on top of your head in sections, resembling Medusa's snakes. Preserves curl definition better than a pineapple for shorter hair or layered cuts.
Microfiber Towel
A towel made from ultra-fine fibers that absorbs water without creating friction or frizz. Far better for curly hair than regular terry cloth towels, which rough up the cuticle. Use to scrunch or plop - never rub.
Moisture-Protein Balance
The balance between hydration and structural strength in your hair. Too much moisture = limp, mushy curls with no definition. Too much protein = dry, brittle, straw-like hair that snaps. Healthy curls need both. If curls are flat and gummy, add protein. If stiff and breaking, add moisture.
N
No-Poo
Washing hair without any shampoo at all - using only water, conditioner, or natural alternatives like clay washes. More extreme than co-washing. Works for some type 4 hair but can lead to buildup problems for most other curl types.
O
Oil Rinsing
Applying oil to hair before the final rinse of conditioner. The oil creates a barrier that prevents hair from absorbing too much water (reducing hygral fatigue) while locking in moisture. Especially helpful for high porosity hair.
Overnight Protection
Methods to preserve curls while sleeping: pineapple (loose high ponytail), medusa clipping, satin bonnet, or silk pillowcase. Using satin or silk reduces friction that causes frizz and breakage. Most people use a combination - pineapple plus satin pillowcase is common.
P
Pineapple
A nighttime technique where you gather all your hair into a very loose, high ponytail on top of your head using a silk or satin scrunchie. Keeps curls from being crushed while sleeping. Works best for medium to long hair. Short-haired curlies may prefer medusa clipping.
Plopping
A drying technique: lay a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt flat, flip your wet styled hair onto it face-down, then wrap it up on top of your head. Keeps curls compressed for better clumping while absorbing excess water. Plop for 10-30 minutes before air drying or diffusing.
Porosity
How well your hair absorbs and retains moisture, determined by the condition of your hair's cuticle layer. Low porosity resists water, high porosity absorbs it quickly but loses it fast. Test by placing a clean hair in water - floats = low, sinks = high. Our quiz factors in porosity.
Prayer Hands
A product application technique where you place product between your palms, press them together with a section of hair in between, and smooth downward. Distributes product evenly without disrupting curl clumps. Use before scrunching for even coverage.
Pre-Poo
A treatment (usually oil or conditioner) applied to hair before shampooing to protect it from the stripping effects of cleansing. Helps prevent dryness, especially for high porosity or color-treated curls. Coconut oil is a popular pre-poo because it penetrates the hair shaft.
Protein Treatment
A treatment containing hydrolyzed proteins (keratin, silk, wheat) that temporarily fills gaps in damaged hair cuticles, adding strength and reducing breakage. Use when curls feel limp, mushy, or won't hold their shape. Too much protein makes hair brittle - balance with moisture.
R
Refresh
Reviving day 2+ curls without fully rewashing. Methods include water spray and scrunch, leave-in conditioner spray, steam refresh, or dry refresh with oil. See our 5 refresh methods. The best method depends on your curl type and how flat your curls are.
Reset Wash
A wash with clarifying or sulfate shampoo to completely strip all product buildup and start with a clean slate. Do this before starting a new routine, when switching products, or when curls look limp and weighed down despite your usual routine working before.
S
Satin Bonnet
A satin or silk-lined cap worn while sleeping to reduce friction, prevent frizz, and preserve curl definition overnight. Essential for type 3-4 curls. Alternative: a silk or satin pillowcase, which is less secure but more comfortable for some people.
Scrunching
The fundamental curly hair technique: cup your hair in your palms and squeeze upward toward your scalp, then release. Used to apply products, encourage curl formation, and break gel cast (SOTC). Always scrunch up, never pull down.
Shrinkage
When curly hair appears significantly shorter than its actual stretched length due to the tightness of the curl pattern. Type 4C hair can shrink up to 75%. Shrinkage is a sign of healthy, elastic curls - not a problem to fix.
Silicones
Synthetic ingredients that coat the hair to add shine and reduce frizz. Non-water-soluble silicones (dimethicone, amodimethicone) build up without sulfate shampoo. Water-soluble silicones (cyclomethicone, PEG-modified silicones) rinse out with gentle cleansers and are generally fine for curly hair routines.
SOTC (Scrunch Out The Crunch)
Breaking a dried gel cast to reveal soft, defined curls. Wait until hair is 100% dry, apply a drop of oil or serum to your palms, and scrunch hair upward. The crunchy shell breaks and curls become soft and touchable while keeping their shape. Full SOTC guide.
Squish to Condish (S2C)
A conditioning technique done in the shower: after applying conditioner, cup water in your hands and squish it into your hair repeatedly. The squishing motion pushes conditioner and water into the hair shaft for deeper hydration. You'll hear a squelching sound when it's working.
Sulfates
Strong cleansing agents (sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate) found in many shampoos. They effectively remove buildup but can strip natural oils if used too frequently. Sulfates aren't inherently bad - occasional use every 2-4 weeks helps prevent buildup.
T
Transitioning
The process of growing out chemically treated hair (relaxed, permed, keratin-treated) to return to your natural curl pattern. Can take 6-18 months depending on hair length. The alternative is the big chop (cutting all treated hair at once).
T-shirt Method
Using an old cotton T-shirt instead of a towel to dry curly hair. The smooth fabric creates less friction than terry cloth, reducing frizz. Used the same way as plopping - lay the shirt flat, flip hair onto it, and wrap. A budget alternative to microfiber towels.
U
Upside Down Styling
Flipping your head upside down while applying styling products and scrunching. Adds volume at the roots and helps curls form without being pulled flat against the scalp by gravity. Especially helpful for fine, limp wavy hair that needs root lift.
W
Wash Day
The day you fully wash, condition, and style your curls from scratch. Most curly-haired people wash 1-3 times per week depending on curl type - wavy hair may need more frequent washing, while coily hair may only wash once a week. The days between are "refresh" days.
Wash-and-Go
A styling method where you wash, apply products, and let curls form on their own without heat or manipulation. The most natural styling approach. Works best for type 3-4 curls that have strong natural clumping. Wavy hair may need more encouragement (scrunching, plopping) to hold its pattern.
Wet Styling
Applying all styling products to soaking wet hair (not damp, not towel-dried - dripping wet). Most stylists recommend this for best curl definition because water helps products distribute evenly and curls clump better when fully hydrated.